THE HUNCHBACK CARDOON OF NIZZA MONFERRATO

Some sandy soil and a centuries-old processing technique. The secret of the Nizza Monferrato hunchback cardoons lies in these two elements: the geological characteristics of the Belbo Valley and an ancient, yet laborious craft. White, tender and tasty, but how is this excellence achieved? Mainly it is thanks to the patience of the cardoon growers who begin sowing in May and wait for the plant to become tall and lush before proceeding, by hand and with their backs bent over the rows, with folding and covering with soil. It is now September and the cardoon is thus protected from frost, but at the same time yearning for light. Its reaction to the lack of sunlight is all chemical: it gets ""hunched over"", it bleaches, by transforming chlorophyll into starch, and acquires those unique traits of tenderness, crispness and delicate, slightly bitter flavour. One month of treatment and by early winter the bleaching is complete: they are dug up, cleaned and prepared for the local markets. Traditionally, cardoons are eaten cooked, but the Nizza Monferrato hunchback cardoon is excellent when eaten raw and is an essential ingredient in some traditional Piedmontese recipes, first and foremost bagna cauda, the hot sauce made with garlic, anchovies and oil that is traditionally eaten in company.

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